Årsdagssemester i Sarajevo, Bosnien

Årsdagen 2015, elva år tillsammans och ett år som gifta, tillbringades i Sarajevo. Eftersom flygen gick sällan var vi borta en hel vecka men på grund av några deadlines på jobbet jobbade jag en del från hotellrummet.

Sarajevo var definitivt intressant att besöka, men en vecka var i längsta laget. Inte minst på grund av den dåliga luften. Sarajevo har väldigt dålig luft (nu i december tvingades skolorna stänga pga dålig luft skriver DN), så dålig luft att det faktiskt var jobbigt att andas. Kombinationen av saker som väldigt gamla bilar (medelåldern på bilar i Sarajevo är 19 år), geografi (Sarajavo ligger i en dal), uppvärmningsmetod (naturgas har blivit så dyrt att man nu eldar med kol hemma i lägenheterna för att få värme) och att mer eller mindre 100% av befolkningen röker gjorde att vi drabbades av näsblod, problem med ögon, svullna halsar och allmän andningspanik. I gamla stan ligger dessutom grilloset tung i gränderna.

Sarajevo ”sett” från en kulle. Det är inte dimma, utan föroreningar.
Sarajevo

Men det är som sagt en intressant stad. ”Belägringen av Sarajevo är den längsta belägringen i modern historia. Serbiska styrkor från Republika Srpska belägrade Sarajevo, Bosnien och Hercegovinas huvudstad, från den 5 april 1992 till den 29 februari 1996.” skriver Wikipedia. De flesta hus är fulla med kulhål. Och nej, fasaderna är inte reparerade. I gatorna finns också ”sarajeviska rosor”, märken efter granater.

En sarajevisk ros
Sarajevo

Hus med kulhål
Sarajevo

Det finns mycket historia i Sarajevo, det var ju här första världskriget startade, med Skotten i Sarajevo. På bron på bilden säger man att kriget startade (det var egentligen fyra meter därifrån).
Sarajevo

Sarajevo är verkligen en smältdegel; muslimer, katoliker, judar, protestanter och säkert andra. Det är inte många som säger sig vara ateister, du får nämligen mycket sämre samhällsförmåner om du inte tillhör någon religion. Men moskéer, katedraler, synagogor och kyrkor ligger mer eller mindre vägg i vägg.

Sarajevo har en hel del problem, Bosnien och Herzegovina är till exempel fortfarande ett FN-protektorat, något som skulle vara tillfälligt efter kriget men som fortfarande förnyas år efter år trots att det nu gått 20 år. Och trots att det inte är ovanligt att se kvinnor i burka (alltså helt täckta) gå i samma kompisgäng som kvinnor i minikjolar märktes också spänningar tydligt, och som turist som bara varit där en vecka är känslan att det inte ska mycket till för att bli krig igen.

Alla bilder från veckan i Sarajevo finns här, bland annat från vårt besök på olika OS-arenor, det var vinter-os i Sarajevo 1984: https://www.flickr.com/photos/granding/sets/72157662643404871.

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